The Dining Traveler Blog: Travel and Food Inspiration

"Mi cabello blanqueó, ya mi vida se vá, ya la muerte me llama". These nostalgia laced lyrics are from a song called Mi Viejo San Juan, the anthem of the Puerto Rican diaspora. The song is about a man lamenting that he was never able to return to the Old San Juan he loved so much during his final days on earth. My father is ninety-five years old and preparing for his physical departure of this world. On Tuesday, he told us from his bed: "yo siempre seré puertorriqueño". I will always be Puerto Rican. That simple statement triggered "Mi Viejo San Juan" to be stuck in my head for the past few days and inspired me to write this post.

My Father and I, sometime in the eighties

When I was five years-old, my father decided to retire in Puerto Rico after decades of living in Upstate NY. We moved there and my childhood journey began. My childhood in Puerto Rico has been the main influence of everything I have done in my adult life. My love for food and travel began as a six year-old eating octopus salad at the seaside with my parents. My love for travel was born during the road trips we took around the island on my father's huge 1978 baby blue Ford LTD. On a Saturday morning, the car would hug the curves of the mountains of the center of the island until we reached a lechonera, a hut where pigs are roasted on a bamboo stick over coals. It was warm and the air was always misty as my father asked for cuts of pork with rice and beans. My dad always wore a guayabera (an island cotton shirt) and introduce himself to strangers with a sparkling smile that he has been his signature for over nine decades.

The Cordillera Central of Puerto Rico

That Ford LTD also took us to San Juan several times. We lived in the southern coast of the island, only 35 miles south of San Juan, however it seemed like a long journey. Once there, we walked the streets of Old San Juan, with its pastel colors, cobblestone streets, and the iconic Morro Fort. I vaguely remember being a little girl and flying a kite in front of the ample grounds which welcome the fort. Old San Juan is laced with nostalgia. You can see it in the faces of the elderly women who leave the church, in the sea weathered castle, and the balconies with shipped black paint.

The Balconies of Viejo San Juan, January 2014

One of my favorite memories of that era was my father singing at the terrace of our home. He sang love songs to my mother and gathered with neighbors and friends during Christmas time to sing parranda songs. I can still see myself as a little girl, sitting on a rocking chair at our terrace and listening to my father play "Mi Viejo San Juan" on the guitar. His voice was calming and natural as he played his Spanish guitar. When his fingers touched the cords, he captured everybody's attention. Even our German Sheppard Max, ears would perk up in admiration.

As an adult in Pozuelo, January 2014

I recently visited Puerto Rico in January 2014 and it was a beautiful homecoming. I had just gotten married and had the opportunity to show my husband many of the places I enjoyed as a child. We walked the streets of Old San Juan where I shared stories of my childhood. We drove to my hometown of Guayama, where we had lunch in Pozuelo, a fishermen community where my father used to take us for my beloved octopus salad. We drove by my old house and the terrace where so many lovely memories were made.

El Morro Fort, Puerto Rico

In 1992, we left our beloved island back to the mainland. Since then, my father never returned to Puerto Rico. However, there were many times when he picked up his guitar in Upstate New York and transported me to the years of my childhood. He sang "Mi Viejo San Juan" and I too felt the nostalgia for the land which saw me grow. It took me back to the days at the beach, the lazy afternoons in our terrace, and our road trips on the LTD. My father inspired me to be fearless and to always discover new things although he never went beyond the United States and Canada. Although his country count was limited physically, he traveled the world because I always carry him in my heart.
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Although being in a long distance relationship is tough, one of the perks is that I get to go to Europe a few times a year. It’s my third time crossing the ocean in the last year and feel fortunate to have the resources to do so. This time, I was fortunate to see the Netherlands, Belgium, and France. Even after 6 years of living in Europe, it still amazes me how different things can be within less than 100 miles in Europe. My adventure began and ended in The Netherlands, the land of my love. This post covers the highlights of my time spent in the land of tulips and canals.

Boathouses on the Canal, Amsterdam

The most recent times I have been to The Netherlands have given me a greater sense of the land and its people (doesn’t hurt I have a very private guide). Having a Dutchman in my life has opened my eyes to a very diverse country in every sense: terrain, food, and culture. My journey began in Amsterdam where I landed. I found an amazing deal via Jetsetter to stay at the Okura Hotel in Amsterdam. We loved how the hotel is away from the tourist traps of Leidseplein or Centraal Station. Our room on the 16^th floor had a gorgeous view of the city on a hot summer day. The canal which ran along the hotel dismissed the tourist canal boats for small boats filled with locals having drinks with friends celebrating a rare day of sunshine. That evening, we had a lovely dinner at the terrace of Serre, one of the restaurants of the Okura. It was a beautiful warm evening with a late sunset, perfect to begin a lovely, 9-day vacation in Europe.

Cava on the Beach, Scheveningen

After a lovely day in Amsterdam, we returned to Den Haag, where the Dutchman lives. I was surprised with how the hot weather was this time of the year. Usually, summer in Northern Europe can be very unpredictable and at times cold. This was the perfect opportunity to do something I had never done in my years living in Europe: swim the North Sea. We headed to beach of Scheveningen, the Den Haag seaside neighborhood. The weather was hot, perfect for a glass of bubbles in the morning before we took a dip in the cold ocean. Not only was it my first time swimming in the North Sea, but it was my first time doing it naked! The beach was already crowded at 10am on a Monday. We decided to move to the nudist section. It was my first time in the environment, but I felt very safe. People were minding their own business, reading their books and playing with their children. I have to admit there was no ogling which cannot be said about “clothed” beaches (I lived in Miami). What I love about the experience is how free it felt to swim in the open ocean in my natural state. It was a marvelous connection with nature, glad I had the courage to do it.

Sunset by the Canal, Delft

After a lovely day on the beach, we went to the town of Delft for dinner. Delft is known for its blue and white pottery, its university, and for its history with the House of Orange (the Dutch royal family). The architecture is amazing. Buildings from the 17th and 18th century are kept in pristine condition. As we strolled alongside the small canals which hug the city, I could not help but to wonder about the lives lived during those times. We ate at a small restaurant which terrace was a small boat. As we slowly rocked, we watched people rolling by on their bicycles, young students carrying their case of Heineken , and admired the stillness which existed in the whole scene. I left the city wanting to return and discover more of its charm.


Dinner with a view, Delft

Every time my Dutchman and I say goodbye, I feel as a piece of me stays with him. The first days without him are the most difficult. I am grateful we have the resources to be able to see each other as much as we do and to get to learn new things about each others' culture. I feel more in tune with The Netherlands every time I visit. If you do go to this beautiful Kingdom, please see beyond the inner canals of Amsterdam.

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En mi Viejo San Juan/In my Old San Juan

Euro Adventures: Dutch Edition